Last November I bought a Stanley 386 cheater
fence for jointing because it has screw holes in it for the
mounting of a wooden addition to the metal fence.
I selected a piece of scrap Sepele wood and put
it with the 386 fence and that is as far as I got. So, I grabbed
some time this afternoon and made the wooden face for the fence.
I have several planes with cheater fences on
them. I prefer a wooden long jointer to joint boards and then
make one pass with a jack plane with a cheater fence on it to
make sure that the edge is exactly 90 degrees to the faces. If
you are a beginner, I recommend mounting a jointing fence on a
dedicated plane and using it to check the accuracy of your
Most beginners plane a wind on the edge of a
board with the plane tilted too far right at the start end and a
little too far left on the far end. One or two passes with a
plane with a cheater fence will correct the error. Consider a
cheater fence the equivalent of training wheels on a bike. Once
you get the feel of a perfect 90 degrees after using a fence,
you will be able to do freehand jointing. You can also set a
fence to different common angles for octagons and hexagons as
well as any other angle you need for a project.
This is the Stanley 386 jointing fence after I
had cleaned it and lubricated all the thumbscrew threads on it.
I then sprayed it with Boeshield T-9 to prevent rust in the
The Sepele wooden fence that I made is ready to
mount in this photo. The screws have to have large heads but
very short in length because the wood is only 3/8ths of an inch
This is the other side of the Sepele fence, the
one that will ride against boards I will be truing with it. I
inlayed a 10 mm. mother-of-Pearl dot in it to spruce it up a