A Traditional Tool Chest in Two Days with Christopher Schwarz Video Download

A Traditional Tool Chest in Two Days with Christopher Schwarz Video Download


Woodworkers who use traditional tool chests swear they ™re the most convenient way to organize tools for work...[Read More]
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Blacksmithing for Woodworkers: Forging a Custom Hinge DVD

Blacksmithing for Woodworkers: Forging a Custom Hinge DVD


Don't settle for standard, store-bought hardware for you next woodworking project. Make your own by following the clear...[Read More]
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Making and Using Tools - Planes, Scrapers, and Shaves

  Building an English Steel Miter Plane – Part I by Adrian Britt 5 of 13  

Here is the completed 1/16” mouth joint ready for peening.

I set the body on the assembled sole and mark out the front tails. I am careful to use the tail angles and spacing that were used before on the rear sole plate.

At this stage, I check all the joints. Any rocking or large gaps must be resolved. I back file all of the pins and tails for the double-splayed effect. The body is now ready for peening to the sole.

The bridge is made next. A piece of 1-1/4” x 3/16” plate is marked on each side to the proper internal body width. Then I place a 3/16” mark outside each of the previous marks. This will compensate for the body plate width and the necessary proud material for peening. There will be two tenons per side. These are 3/16” square. I cut the two tenons per side and file out the waste.

I transfer the tenons to the body using a scribe to mark the 20-degree bed angle in the proper location. Then the width of the iron is laid in to create a datum point for the wedge angle. The wedge will seat at 8-degrees.

Once the tenon hole locations have been marked, I drill two holes per side. The hole must be smaller than the tenon width. I use a square needle file to transform the round hole into a square hole. I insure that the tenons easily drop into the square holes.


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5 of 13  


English Chisel


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